India has always been known for its rich tradition of hand embroidery techniques and inspired by the colourful varieties offered through these techniques, an assortment of single-head and multi-head machines have now entered the industry to offer greater options in embroidery at much faster speed. Already being handicraft rich, exporters are now able to combine hand embroidery and beading techniques with the computerized machines to achieve a unique and distinct effect of its own kind and owing to the decreased cost, time reduction and increase in production speed and capacity, computerized embroidery machines have strengthened the intrinsic embroidery culture, which sees a bright future ahead…

Innovation and experimentation, being the need of the day in fashion, is making embroidery machines an essential part of surface ornamentation complementing other surface techniques done mostly by hand. Most modern day machines are offering a variety of application choices to help the user, come in line with the ongoing trends. A multi-head machine consists of heads providing coiling, sequin and thread embroidery options in one machine, allowing the user to experiment with special effects in a cost-effective manner appropriate to mass production.

Job workers have invested in a number of latest machines to service the industry as embroidery is a common demand from buyers working with India. “Presently, embroidery is ruling the industry and much of the concentration is shifting to computer embroidery, as it is production-friendly and many combination effects can be achieved in one style. We can combine sequin embroidery with cording, or coiling with normal thread embroidery. Today, only the high-end garments and the more expensive styles are done by hands,” says Soni, Owner, Art World Embroidery & Punching. Another big job worker in the Delhi-NCR region Rajesh Gupta, MD, Shiv Shakti Embroideries adds, “The computerized embroidery market is going really good. We are able to achieve many effects through machines, for example, aari embroidery and laser cutting is combined to achieve 3D effect. We have in total 22 machines from Tajima and Aura, all multi-head machines starting from 18 heads going up to 38 heads.”

Mix-n-Match – A popular trend with the exporters

Mixing different embroidery techniques is becoming really popular with the exporters. Owing to the demand of the buyers, ribbon embroidery is being combined with beading, sequin embroidery is incorporated with fabric manipulation and running stitches and so on to give uniqueness to fashion products. “We are working for brands like Armond & Ferri and Etam from Europe, and for them we are producing straight cut tops with minimal embroidery. We are doing a lot of aari embroideries, which we think has a bright future according to the demand we are receiving. We have worked with hand embroidery but the cost doesn’t seem to suit our requirements therefore we prefer to mix-n-match hand techniques with machine embroidery,” says Sandip Kumar, Assistant Designer, Jayshree International.

The company is doing sequin with thread embroidery, highlight embroidery on schiffli embroidered fabrics and putting together prints with embroidery by highlighting printed flowers with different stitches mixed with bead work.

“We are also developing 3D effects on T-shirts by printing a digital image and doing shaded embroidery. Our buyer demand is not of fully embroidered garments, the demand is for simple garments with small motifs of butterflies, flowers and Mexican motifs on the side or centre of the garment,” adds Sandip.

Another company that is combining hand techniques with machine work to perfection is JJ Expo Impo. “We use almost all kinds of embroideries incorporating fabric manipulations with different embroidery stitches. As we mostly concentrate on dresses, we try and mix different techniques, to give each dress a different look,” informs Goonjan Kumar, Designer, JJ Expo Impo. The design team is using different types of laces by pleating and gathering and then attaching them through embroidery. A lot of patterns on dresses and even jackets are being experimented with. Embroidery is being exploited in the best possible way to achieve varied surfaces. “We do cording on the neckline in coiled pattern and then add value by doing sequin embroidery on top of it. We also experiment with laser embroidery where we laser cut the fabric and seal the edges with thread embroidery or achieve a schiffli inspired effect,” shares Goonjan.

Computerized embroidery taking a  flight with new machines in the pipeline…

Amid growing popularity, embroidery machine manufacturing companies like, Tajima, Lasser Swiss, HCA and ZSK keep on innovating and presenting new technologies in embroidery machines, to provide an aide to the users…

Anil Anand Managing Director, Hari Chand Anand & Co.

The market for embroidery machine is showing improvement in comparison to last couple of years and with the growing acceptance of technology and need of innovation in this field, embroidery is definitely the technique for the future. It was earlier thought that printing would replace embroidery, however that is not still the case, embroidery and printing both are co-existing together, adding value to each other’s visual appeal. We offer various different combinations in multi-head machines, but it is not advisable to have everything on one machine, therefore a combination of 4-5 techniques is a good option. Our most popular and best model is the SB+-WH(X)918-120, this SB plus model was launched in the year 2011-12, with dimensions of 18 head, 400 (800) X 1200 mm (800 – being alternate) head to head area, both with and without sequin. By far this has been the most versatile model as it can be used for traditional Indian garments as well as western wear. We have installed our machine mostly in Delhi-NCR. We shall be introducing new machinery form SWF by mid of this year.

Masamichi Sato Asst. Counselor-Sales Dept., Tajima Industries Ltd.

With increasing demand of embroidery and various trends floating in the industry involving different embroidery techniques and stitches, manufacturers have to keep on innovating and launching new machines to fulfil the customer needs. The most popular model of embroidery machine from our company is TFGNII-918 (1200 X 400 W and we have installed it mainly in North India. A lot of combination machines are getting attention like our lockstitch chenille Taping & Coiling embroidery machine TLMX series which is getting demand from all over the world.

Hardy Lipp Sales Director, Lasser Swiss Embroidery Machines

Embroidery has always had a bright future in India, because it is already a part of the Indian culture. This year’s market is approximately same as last year. Till now, we have already installed 5 machines and some are in the pipeline. The installations were made in Delhi area and Surat. According to us, embroidery is never going to lose its charm as the trend keeps on evolving year-by-year and with all the technology made available by us, the options of creating something unique widens. With variety of effects achieved through different machineries, this age-old technique always appears as a brand new one. The biggest demand in our range of machines is for the 20 metre MD57 MTC Schiffli embroidery machine. And in our multi-head type LSH Schiffli head machine we also offer Thermo cut and Crystal stone. We are able to supply our machines with multi combinations, sequin, cord, Thermo cut and Crystal stone embroidering. This year in ITMA-ASIA in Shanghai, China, we are set to present new upgraded versions for Schiffli and LSH Schiffli head machines.

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