Architectural ruffles

Though commonly seen on hems of skirts and tops, ruffles are now coming in a variety of forms, manipulations and versions, and are no longer seen as a gathered trim, to become a major silhouette inspiration in the seasons to come. Manoeuvred and presented in distinctive avatars in the Resort 2016 collections, ruffles witnessed a transformation into an ultrafeminine and ultramodern detail, becoming omnipresent and protagonists of the outfits. With many designers trying to enhance their creations with fabric folding and gathering to suit the summer, exporters have now also taken a cue from the runways, and are now incorporating ruffles in their collections…

The term ruffle is a particular type of fabric manipulation that creates a similar look to that of gathering but with less bulk. A wavy effect is created by cutting a curved strip of fabric and applying the inner or shorter edge to the garment. The depth of the curve as well as the width of the fabric determines the depth of the ruffle. Ruffles have always been the essentials for evening gowns; but are now entering other domains such as shirts, and blazers as well. Some ruffles are known to spice up the outfit while others are known to give it a statement look.

One of the hottest trends seen over the Resort 2016 runways, designers incorporated ruffles in everything from dresses and gowns to blouses and skirts. Some were subtle ruffle details and some were more profound. Ruffles have a way of having a lot of volume but still retain the feeling of lightness, airy and femininity. Elevated in the collections, ruffles left behind the fussy flounce and favoured elegant ripples of fabric masterfully bias cut. Poles apart from the amalgamation of traditional deep frill edged necklines, waists and cuffs, the contemporary silhouettes created much desired holiday looks. At Erdem, flounced ruffles on high slit skirts lent a dramatic fl air… From collars to cuffs, sides of skirts, sleeves, and tiered dresses, the queen of ruff es Rosie Assouline created ruffles in all dimensions and sizes while Gucci teased with collars and cuffs peeking out with hanging waterfall ruffles.

Ruffles have now taken shape of oversized undulations and are formed in shapes of silhouettes itself. Tiered sleeves, skirts, shorts and tops are taking the entire spotlight on the runways. Instead of being put in small gathered stripes in hems, entire sleeve lengths are created in layers with huge surface area. Long dresses and crinkled skirts traditionally take up to 40 metres of fi ne mulmul cotton to add ruffles, yet they tend to look sleek and glamorous. It’s all about the ruffles in correct quantity and panelling them right. The cut plays the most important role in any given outfit, and if the outfits are panelled they look more elegant than fussy gathered frills. Romantic ruffl es are packing extra volume this season, striking hard on summer musts like crop tops, tanks, and LWDs (the evergreen ‘little while dress’). These ruffles are also known as bias ruffles, for the sole reason that they have been cut on the diagonal to maximize stretch and improve drape. It adds fullness and fl ow to the shape with a sense of movement. It also adds an ethereal quality to the casual but sophisticated look.

The fabric used to create layers of ruffles is also very important many times. Ruffles, absolutely perfect for Spring, have accommodated a variety of materials this season whether it’s silk, lace, velvet, chiffon, wool or leather. Erdem was seen experimenting with distinct fabric choices like leather to create an androgynous fashion statement whereas Proenza Schouler picked up unconventional dark wool to create layers for his resort collection. Stella McCartney staying true to her sportswear affection, transformed knits into ruffles on her cotton sweaters. Trademark, showcased an addition of red buttons on a textured button up shirt, the unexpected use of lurex on an emerald green sweatshirt, the application of embroidery on Japanese selvedge denim, all with juxtaposition of feminine ruffles against traditional silhouettes.

There is a fine line between ruffled elegance and ruffled excessiveness. The best thing is to opt for one area to be highlighted with ruffles. Resort 2016 also dropped hints at choices of colours like, nude, pastels, neutrals or one piece accents.

A HIT IN THE DIRECTORY OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION, AND EVEN FOR THE INDIAN EXPORT MARKET, SAMPLING FOR STYLES WITH RUFFLES ARE ON IN FULL THRUST. MANY OTHER COMPANIES ARE OBSERVING THE GROWING VISIBILITY OF RUFFLES ON THE RUNWAYS AND ARE PLANNING TO INCORPORATE THEM IN THEIR UPCOMING COLLECTIONS…

Mitesh Bhatia, Director, Vamani Overseas “Even though the trend must have picked up for a more fashionable client abroad earlier, we didn’t get order for peplums or styles with ruffl es last summer. But now it is extremely popular from India in the Fall product development collections, we have made some variations, all in the colour black.”

Vandana Prakash, Merchandising Manager, Rupayan “We saw more of the classic ruffl es in 2012 and again for 2013. But for the running S/S ’16 season, more variations are being asked for, moving from just tops to tunics, skirts and dresses also. For a lively summer, the silhouette is playing with very bright colours.”

Annie Jha, Designer, Impulse “Ruffl es have been really big for Europe in 2014, and suddenly for this season as well we are observing ruffl es in almost all brands we work with. Even on the catwalks every designer had some peplum piece and ruffl e as a detail in their collection.”

Sagar Tenali, Designer “A little frill on the neckline of a shirt or on the hem of a dress is all one needs to rock this trend. For a day event you can wear a crisp shirt with frills on the neckline paired with shorts, strappy heels, tiny diamond studs and hair tied in a loose braid. For an evening party, you can opt for a frill skirt or a dress with frill on the hem, delicate neckpiece, pretty pumps and hair let down.”