It is often said that classic fashion never dies; it only renews and rejuvenates itself with time. One of the most classic silhouettes of all times and a favourite of the 70s, ‘the bell-bottoms’ seems to have made a comeback in the fashion scene of late. Regarded as a silhouette for all, these flared pants were seen as an innate part of the Resort 2016 collections. Runways witnessed the reign of the flare, which appeared in a staggering number of collections, and amongst all, the bell-bottom trousers became particularly popular. With a noticeable trickledown effect of this trend, from the runways to the mainstream market, exporters are catching hold of this opportunity in full force and are all set to include the ‘bell-curve’ in their collections. More importantly, with growing inclination of women towards vintage fashion, the simple construction and comfortable silhouette makes flared pants an industry favourite!
The fashion world is a cyclical amalgamation of old styles in new interpretations. Sometimes that manifests in ways that we prefer the older version than the new. Bell-bottoms, pants with legs that become wider below the knee, were an extremely popular fashion trend during the late 1960s and 1970s. The belled or flared legs on bell-bottom pants were originally a functional design, worn by those who worked on boats since the 17th century. The large legs allowed the pants to be easily rolled up out of the way for such messy jobs as washing the decks. In addition, if a sailor fell overboard, bellbottom pants could be pulled off over boots or shoes and the wide legs inflated with air for use as a life preserver.
As the industry felt the transition from functional to fabulous, the flared bottoms became a fashion statement taken on by celebrities…; who can forget the beetles in their signature flares. Bell-bottoms, both wide and just slightly flared, were traditionally made from denim, but now are seen in variations of bright cotton, satin polyester, suede, rayon, silk and even leather. Being a popular symbol of the past, the flared pants have always tweaked themselves to remain in the fashion circle in one way or the other. The baggy pants, the culottes and the palazzos are variations of our favourite bell-bottoms.
With the recurrent and persistent need for functionality in fashion today, the flared bottoms are being spotted on the runways for consecutively two seasons now. While the appearance of bell-bottoms in Spring 2015 could be accredited to its season appropriate nature, its continuation into the Resort 2016 suggested the onset of a massive trend revolving around the relaxed silhouettes. Taking into account the relaxed vibe it can be easily concluded that the coming seasons will serve as home for flared silhouettes, especially in trousers.
What is making this trend even more viable are the multiple interpretations the bell-bottoms could be offered in, depending on the markets the exporters wish to target. Flared bottoms are experiencing a stronger foothold as a workwear separate in many Resort 2016 collections. Designers are making continual attempts to instil a dose of utility in this flattering structure. While in cotton and linen, the silhouette looks casual yet classy, rendering the same silhouette in blended wool, knitted fleece and jacquard – with a sharp pleat or two, gives a modern American sensibility. Designers including Alice-Olivia, Derek Lam, and Ellery, projected an array of flared pants with slimming, retro and bohemian aesthetics. The flare becoming the next big thing was showcased in sheer versions at Versace and Ellery. Taking innovative design concepts to heart, Rachel Zoe presented an imaginative amalgamation of leather and suede to create the famous fit and flare. The garments are shaped through the legs and truly kick out at the hems, giving bottoms an interesting shape. Derek Lam takes the trend to the original denim versions, adopting the style for his collection.
Interestingly, this bell shape is not only getting introduced in trousers, but they are also finding interpretations in skirts, tunics and sleeves. The bell shape brings back the fluidity and curviness though the retro collections of Calvin Klein, Thakoon and Suno being utilized in body-hugging tunics and skirts flared flirtatiously at the hem. Be it flared in the Indian way, or the most structured way possible, created in the archetypical denim or the new viscose attempt, adorned with interesting finishes or just a little trim, bell-bottoms are back with a bang!
THE INDUSTRY EMBRACES THE ARRIVAL OF THE BELL-BOTTOMS…
Varsha Bhawnani, MD, Vinegar Exports
Flared bottoms are becoming a big rage lately, being seen in the collections of multiple designers. As we are mostly into high street fashion, silhouettes like the flared bottoms go very well with our sensibilities. We pay a lot of attention to the construction of the garment; therefore, buyers will witness a variety of formal inspired bell-bottoms in our upcoming collection.
Satish Singhal, CEO, Mint Impex
We are doing ladies garments and kids’ garments. We mostly work on tops and trousers specializing in prints. The demand for pyjamainspired trousers has been taking rounds of the industry since quite some time; flare is an integral part of this trend that is now becoming more pronounced.
Goonjan Kumar, Designer, JJ Expo Impo
Bell-bottoms and flared trousers have been getting popular since the last season. With the prolonged influence of the 70’s continuing yet again, the flared trousers are here to stay. With buyers moving towards comfortable styles, loose, formal and casual trousers are a major hit and demands for the same are on the rise.
Sharad Kapoor, Director, MLK Exports
Semi-fitted trousers are being developed for the season…, fitted from the top and fared at the bottom. The fit has loosened a little bit. The look of the bellbottoms is being mimicked but in trousers. The bottom flare is not like that in the culottes; these pants are slightly narrow but still have the concept of the flare.
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