After every two years, technology seekers from across the world converge in Shanghai for the mega event CISMA. Over the time this exhibition has gained the reputation of being ‘a must visit’ for dealers and wholesalers of garment technology machines from not only Asia, but also remote areas like South America and Africa, who can not only see new machines on display, but also crack deals with manufacturers for bulk container loads to market in their country. As the technology providers gear up with latest offering, visitors too are looking forward to another exciting edition of CISMA from 23-26th September 2015.
China, with its formidable reputation of being the factory of the world in almost all product categories, has also improved its skills to produce all kinds of technology for the garment manufacturing industry. While many local companies can boast of significant world share in sewing technologies, many leading brands from Europe and Japan are using the country as a sourcing destination to reduce production cost and also be nearer to the garment manufacturing hubs in Asia.
Another expertise of the Chinese industry is the ability to offer a huge range of folders, attachments and accessories for sewing operations to improve productivity and also cut down on labour requirements, in major areas of concern for manufacturing destination as wages continue to increase. Year-after-year, large contingents of people looking for good deals throng the corridors of CISMA for business opportunities, and rarely do they go back disappointed.
However, this in no way means that direct buyers do not visit the event, in fact many production teams from India, Bangladesh, Vietnam and other Asian countries are seen interacting and evaluating technology at the venue. While many upgraded versions of sewing machines and other technologies are of interest to visiting teams, innovation that one would see in western fairs is not so visible here.
At the upcoming edition, the three most sought-after technology directions to look out for are Mechtronix in sewing room operations, cutting room optimization through seamless digital experience and lean applications, and jeans sewing automats. Nearly 1,200 exhibitors from China and overseas are geared to showcase in abundance options in these areas. Some of the major technologies to watch-out for are highlighted in the following pages.
GERBER to focus on 3D solutions for product development; PARAGON VR cutter for high volume manufacturers to debut
In a constant effort to align its solutions with its tagline ‘Unleash Your Vision’, USA-based cutting room and product development solution provider Gerber will showcase the newly launched AccuMark 10, equipped with 3D capabilities. The pattern design, grading, planning and marker making software solution, AccuMark 10 helps manufacturers reduce raw material and labour costs, and generate fewer samples and prototypes by helping different teams of the production process collaborate on a single platform. With an optional 3D module, the patterns developed in AccuMark can now be visualized in 3D for greater accuracy and precision. Going beyond the functions of a pattern development solution, AccuMark 10 now enables importing of work orders from ERP systems and automatically plan, nest, plot and generate cut data without human interaction.
Gerber automation cutter PARAGON VR will be on its debut during the show. It belongs to PARAGON series cutters, perfectly designed for manufacturers in mass production demand. Self-adjusting cutting intelligence makes it quicker and more efficient for operators which increases output and shortens lead time. At the Gerber booth, company’s technical team will be giving live demonstrations on the cutter.
MORGAN TECNICA to display its prowess over the complete cutting room
The Italian cutting room specialist Morgan Tecnica has always been successful at developing solutions for optimising the cutting room operations of apparel manufacturers all over the world. The company’s showcase of the Fusion line at the CISMA fair, which includes automated system of loaders, spreaders, tables, labellers, cutters, plotters and software packages, will highlight this stance of the company. At the forefront of its cutting room technologies, the Fox 100 spreader has a double PVC belt that allows more even wrinkle-free laying, irrespective of the nature of the fabrics. An electronic device checks and eliminates the fabric tension in real time, for real tension-free spreading. The company also offers the opportunity to view spreader data in real time over the web, using the on-board computer touch panel, enabling constant control over the cutting production process, detect the eventual critical areas and take immediate action to improve it.
Also to be showcased, the 315 loader designed to complement the Fox Line 100 spreader is an automated system to feed fabric rolls to the spreader. The spreaders are designed with the latest generation of technology and electronic components to provide the highest efficiency in spreading all types of materials, claims the company. The on-board PC-touch gives the users an opportunity to control and manage the machine’s productivity on-site or remotely. The Morgan Labeller (Joker 380) can be integrated in any spreading line to guarantee quick identification of cut pieces. Completing the process, the Next 70 range of cutters, available in multiple configurations is fast, flexible and precise.
IMA to exhibit from the ‘Syncro Cutting Room’ concept
Italy-based IMA is promoting its exemplary range of Evo Plus for a ‘Syncro Cutting Room’ by the company. Positioned as an optimal solution for the cutting room, the range has digital solutions for every step in the cutting room. The company’s foothold in managing markers will be demonstrated by its software GeniusE-Plus CAD from the range. IMA Labeler System, from the range is the program that feeds and manages the labelling of the fabric before cutting. The Cut Plan, created and developed within IMA, is the program used to organize workflows by optimizing the various operating areas, thus improving the quality of work. The range also consists of a complete suite of programs and machines that support productivity like IMA Cutting Control Center, IMA Spreader MX, and The Cut Plan and accessories like DigitPen – an IMA pattern digitiser, a range of plotters, and paper and cardboard cutting machine.
The new IMA Phoenix 890 series cutter and of spreading machines is equipped with features such as an encoder group for spreading plies of different length without clamps, electronically controlled feeding and tension control mechanism, auto-diagnosis function, automatic braking system, automatic edge alignment through infra-red photocells and low turret for easy loading-unloading of the cloth roll on double PVC belt. The series has six variants – each of which is attuned to cater to a specific fabric capacity. Out of these six, two models are designed for tubular knits. The fair will also feature Evo Plus automatic cutting machines that can cut compressed lays of thickness from single ply to 70 mm of any kind of fabric. The use of latest electronics and total digital control of each single micro-function allows for detection and rectification of any anomaly, even before it shows. This innovation permits the cutter to adapt its own technical-operative specifications to different fabric types (from denim to lycra) and to different lays (from compressed 70 mm to single ply), granting in any situation, consistent precision of cutting performances, maximum speed and vacuum power adaption to real requirements with high energy saving.
BULLMER to demonstrate its cutting room competence with varied solutions
Known for its simplistic cutting room solutions, bullmer – the German pioneer will bring to the show an array of spreaders, cutters, loaders and labellers. On display will be Procut D 8002S – an automatic cutter. The high-ply cutter from bullmer is suitable for apparels, automotive upholstery, toys and luggage cutting applications. The maximum cutting height of the high-ply cutter is 80 mm and the cutting head has a maximum speed of 7200 RPM and the maximum cutting speed realized by the cutter is of 100 metres per minute. The patented lubrication system is another advantage of the cutter, which not only reduces the need of lubricating the cutting head daily, but also extends the service life of the machine. The exhibit will also include Premiumcut – a single-ply cutter. Positioned as one of the most flexible cutters available in the market, Premiumcut comes with a modular construction for fast and easy tool exchange. The cutter comes with a working width from 1400 mm to 5200 mm and can cut all materials at a speed of 120 m/min. The company will complete its display with a range of KW200S automatic spreader, LM2100 automatic labeller and TI2000 automatic fabric loader.
LECTRA to present cutting-edge solutions to support ‘Made in China 2025’
Lectra, the French CAD/CAM solution provider will present its vision from smart design to manufacturing to support ‘Made in China 2025’ plan. At the Lectra booth, visitors will be able to discover Lectra’s cutting solution VectorFashion with 3 different fabric demonstrations (Denim, Knit+Lycra, woven). Kaledo V4R1, the latest release of Lectra’s design solution that features a host of new tools including draper, and a texture mapping module that simulates fabric on images and sketches, producing realistic results for earlier decision making in the collection and sales selection process, will also be on display. This latest release also introduces major improvements to colour management, such as better lighting options for increased colour accuracy. Other features include new repeat, colour mask and transparency tools for more design flexibility.
The show will also feature Optiplan V3R4 – the latest release of Lectra’s cutting room optimization solution. Designed with the specific challenges of fashion and apparel manufacturing in mind, Lectra’s Optiplan applies lean manufacturing principles to cut-planning operations and transforms the cutting room into a competitive advantage – saving time, reducing costs and boosting efficiency. Amongst other exhibits will be the Modaris V7R2 and DiaminoFashion; with Modaris V7R2, Lectra combines pattern-making, draping, and virtual sampling all in one seamless digital process and provides a common visual language for everyone involved in the process – from design to pattern-making to marketing to suppliers. DiaminoFashion – part of Lectra’s fashion and apparel offer, helps streamline the development process and keep production costs down without sacrificing product quality, forming an integral part of a lean process from product development to cutting room by ensuring maximum fabric utilization.
EASTMAN to deliver solutions for every cutting requirement
The American manufacturer of cutting machines, automated cutting systems, material handling equipment and industryspecific design software, Eastman will exhibit at CISMA 2015 its comprehensive line of equipment for the sewn products industry, from front-end material preparation through automatic cutting. The highlight equipment will be the Multi-Ply Cutting System – Raptor 75x. The model is an automated reciprocating straight knife cutter, with conveyor, capable of cutting up to 7.5 cm (3″) of compressed material. The Raptor is an industrial-strength solution for low to high-ply cutting of flexible material goods. Eastman’s exclusive IntellicutTM knife control software increases the accuracy and integrity of the cut from top to bottom ply. Systems that are networked can be accessed by Eastman technicians off-site in real-time for immediate troubleshooting and support. Real-time diagnostics monitor all wires and signals, as well as motors.
The ES 1800 spreading machine can also be seen at the CISMA. Ensuring tension-free spreading machine, the ES 1800 is suitable for all types of material including knits. It features a super load capacity for rolls up to 180 kg in weight, and up to 72 cm in diameter. The material loading location is lower for better ergonomics. The ES-1800 is capable of one-way (face-up) and zigzag (face-to-face) spreading and is available in several widths. Other exhibits include a line-up of about 20 different machines like the band knife EB-900N and fabric loading machine EFL-100 along with the company’s range of manually-operated fabric cutting and spreading machines, a large range of straight and round knives as well as drills and markers, end cutters and rotary shears.
YIN responding to demands of all segments
With strong R&D centres in Germany, Romania and Japan, and subsidiaries in countries like USA, the Shanghai-based Yin Science & Technology’s catalogue of exhibits at CISMA is a beckoning to the emerging demands of all segments of the industry.
The automatic spreaders being exhibited at the fair include SM-I (for spreading roll woven fabric) and SM-IIA (for spreading knitted fabrics). Both spreaders come with servo control system for more accurate spreading and sensors which halt the machine in case it runs out of fabric. Moreover, the fabric can be spread one-way, zigzag and stepped lays.
The HY-H/HC series CAM cutter has been developed to cater to the large-volume manufacturers. The cutter can cut fabric lays of height 70 mm (post-suction) and comes with automatic cloth correction, automatic trouble shooting and automatic cutter change tip. The JY-HG201205 cutter on the other hand caters to medium-to-small volume manufacturers with its capacity to handle lays with a compressed height of 50 mm. The HY-S series has two variants – HY-S0909 and HY-S1624 (for sampling room). The S0909 variant specializes in cutting suits, as claimed by the company. Both the machines come with the material handling and cutting system combined and can cut a lay as thin as 5 mm.
The company’s collection of solutions for the leather industry will also be exhibited at the event. Alongside the LC Series of automatic leather cutters for single ply cutting, HYHC1701 Series cutters will also be exhibited, dubbed as the ‘Mighty Ninja’ by the company, this range of machines handle lays with heights up to 10 mm. While HY-HC1701AS can cut fabric as well as leather, all the other 3 variants of the range are dedicated to leather. The range also includes Leather Readers that develop a complete digitalized process of leather data, including imperfection, grade, batch, Warehousing Information, etc. for optimized nesting and inventory management.
The final exhibit will be a ‘Fashion consultant store system’ by Yin. The system will be tapping the 3D scanning technology for developing made to measure designs.
FASTREACT planning through its precise & proficient software ‘Evolve’
Usually, the planning is either fast but not accurate or accurate but too late, leading to decisions being taken before planning which could be completed. Combating these shortcomings of the conventional planning methods, UK-based ERP solutions provider FastReact will bring to the fair its hallmark planning software – Evolve.
Designed for more accurate and efficient planning, communication, and coordination in the sewn products industry, the software has been deployed in 2000 factories across 40 countries. The simple visual tool makes the complex task of capacity management of knit, assembly, and finishing processes easy. It also helps in deciding the critical path, making the time and action calendar, and the approval of pre-production samples. Communication and coordination with buyers and across departments is facilitated, which helps in taking care of the requirement and availability of materials & trims. Additionally, it provides a KPI dashboard to track performance and collect data for future planning improvement, along with quick alerts to problems, so that they can be solved on time. For better control, the actual situation can be compared with the planned situation using the visual system.
SIRUBA to display specialized sewing solutions for knits and jeans
Knits and denim bottoms are majorly sourced in large volumes, presenting a wide scope for automating various operations. Keeping the same in mind, Taiwanese sewing machine pioneer Siruba will take the opportunity at the CISMA fair to launch nine new sewing machines for denim bottoms and 20 new sewing machines for knits. For denim bottoms, Siruba will launch a complete range of machines for waist band attaching, beltloop bartacking, front fly serging, pocket top stitch, side seaming and bottom hemming along with bartacking and bigger hook capacity lockstitch sewing machines. For knits, Siruba will launch overlock sewing machines for blind hemming, elastic band attaching and circular collar attaching equipped with features such as automatic backlatching device, metering control, tape cutting, side suction and cutter. Also launched, would be interlock machines for short sleeve hemming, elastic tape attaching, seamless tape binding and elastic waistband attaching, multi-needle sewing machines for waistband sewing and flat seamers.
Besides the new launches, Siruba will showcase its already popular machines such as the 747K-514M5-23/BKF – a four thread overlock machine, the 747QD/ECB Mechatronic overlock machine with solenoid type thread cutter and the ASP-EBJ100 elastic band joining machine. The 747K-514M5-23/BKF overlock machine is equipped with an automatic back latch device, which pulls back the stitch chain when sewing for a perfect finish and stable tension. The machine comes with a direct drive servo motor, edge sensor, touch panel, vacuum device, thread chain cutter suction, and auto foot lifter. The other overlock machine 747QD/ECB has a unique design which completely integrates the sewing head, control box and servo motor, ensuring efficient power transmission. The machine comes with dual sensor, various trimming functions, vacuum device and a pneumatic presser foot lifter. The elastic band joining machine, ASP-EBJ100 claims to join a complete waistband in just 8 seconds – thanks to its electronic metering device. The machine utilizes a Juki sewing head.
The machine can attach elastic bands from widths as narrow as 20 mm to widths as thick as 50 mm for a circumference ranging from 300 mm to 1980 mm.
ZOJE to showcase postbed machines for shoe manufacturing and template sewing machines
The Chinese sewing technology pioneer, Zoje has always been at the forefront of developing technology that challenges the global perception of Chinese sewing machines. The company will exhibit the ZJ-AM5770AH-750 series of template sewing machines. With a sewing range of X-axis infinite, Y-axis 410 mm and 750 mm, the machine comes with an upper thread detection sensor and bottom thread detection mechanism for accurate stitch number and thread length counting. The machine has a template identification function which uses magnetic induction. Since the induction area is large, the machine effectively avoids interaction-errors when the template is being placed. The ZJ-AM series machine can identify 256 templates and easily cope with frequent replacement of style.
The company will also be bringing to the fair ZJ-9610SA-D3-H-3-13 series of high-speed direct drive computerized post-bed machine. The vertical postbed makes sewing operations easy and convenient and enables flexible sewing of various arc stitches, thereby making the machine suitable for using in a wide range of applications.
VIBEMAC to showcase updates of its bestseller jeans sewing automats
The Italian-jeans sewing specialist, Vibemac, will be bringing to China enhanced versions of its bestselling sewing solutions such as the 1010V4F1, which is an automatic programmable unit that carries out customized ‘J’ seam on the front fly panel of jeans, casual trousers and workwear, with no cost in terms of extra jigs. The machine also doubles as an automat for operations like back pocket embroidery, sewing darts and pleats, run flap stitch, simply by purchasing the optional components. Also showcased would be the V300-1CS, an automatic chainstitch waistband unit with a new motor, new electronics, new UI and a new plier for a perfect cut and improved efficiency. The sewing head of the machine is equipped with 2 to 4 needle chainstitch. The machine is also available with 2 needle lockstitch or the two types of stitches can be mixed as desired in the machine model FLX.
Better than its predecessor under each and every aspect, the 4650EV9 is equipped with a new userfriendly 7″ coloured touch screen panel, a double compensatory presser foot, new loop aligner system, new loop cutting device, new electronic and an auto-diagnostic system to avoid errors. Also a part of the showcase will be the 3022 BHE-C bottom hemming unit whose sewing head can be modified with a few attachments to be used as chainstitch and a lockstitch machine. The puller system, a Vibemac invention, is composed of a lower roller feeder with an extremely powerful, patented upper puller that easily handles the more delicate operations like crossovers or lap felling, especially with heavy fabrics. With decreased loss of time due to lower frequency of bobbin-change by use of a king-size capacity rotary bobbin and hook, the needle time is improved. The gamut of machineries will be completed with 2516V4 DCT, automatic back pocket setter, equipped with Mitsubishi PLK-G direct drive double needle lockstitch sewing head, with shuttle hook and thread trimmer and allows stitching with two threads in two different colours in one single sewing cycle. It is possible to sew any shape of pockets and apply labels, sew darts, pleats, flaps and patch cargo pockets.
INA HANGER SYSTEM to present solutions for Industry 4.0
As apparel manufacturers embrace the concept of systems and automation to drive efficiency and consistency of output, machinery manufacturers like Singapore-based INL International Technology globally reckoned for their INA Hanger Systems have facilitated the revolution with their ahead-of-the-curve solutions. The pioneer will be present at the technology milieu of CISMA with its latest hanger system EC8R – a solution aligned with the emerging concept of Industry 4.0 intelligent production logic.
Saint Angelo – An early adopter reaping benefits of EC8R
Saint Angelo – a Whenzou-based Chinese apparel manufacturer with 900 stores in China which customizes high-end suits, has opted for sophisticated and technologically-advanced manufacturing setups like INA Hanger System’s EC8R. Since the customization is primarily C2B in nature, it is driven by data mining and Industry 4.0 intelligent manufacturing. Nie Ming Yuan, Senior Garment Manufacturing Planner & Production Director of the company, shares the improvements registered following the deployment of EC8R.
SW: Tell us about the manufacturing systems at Saint Angelo?
NMY: Our company has been planning and deploying Industry 4.0 intelligent manufacturing since second half of 2014. After almost one year’s plan, implementation, testing, the first intelligent production line was set up in first half of this year. Through Industry 4.0 intelligent production, we have overcome bottlenecks of decreasing production quality and are efficiently producing customized garments without lowering quality while maintaining one-piece flow. We have also adopted INA Intelligent Hanger System. Operators place orders via online E-MTM.
SW: How has the implementation of EC8R INA Hanger System facilitated Saint Angelo’s operations?
NMY: Our plant has already set up two lines from INA since second half of 2014. Currently the 396 processes used to produce single suit only requires 117 operators, which in turn increases efficiency by 2.5 times, saves materials by 20 per cent. The operator only needs to sit in the workstation, and watch the screen ahead. PLM intelligent process system sends WIP to designated process so that the operator can carry out processing based upon the data displayed on the screen. Our sales volume has also surged by 50 per cent in first six months this year than that in 2014. Customization production, by applying INA Hanger System, achieves mass production with high efficiency, high standard, intelligence, automation and energy saving.
SPRAYWAY to present a range of spot cleaners, adhesives and lubricants
Sprayway will be presenting its range of spot lifters. The 830 spray is an industrial strength oil stain spot remover aerosol spray. With an easy spray application, the oil stain is removed in 3-5 minutes without leaving any ring or stain on the fabric. An 8 ounce volume packaging for easy handling is also available of the same product under the product code 8838.831 which dries much faster and comes with fragrance required by some buyers. The 833 spray is a nonchlorinated solvent spot lifter approved and accepted by several leading buyers.
JAPSEW to showcase sewing machines for decorative stitches
Osaka-based Japsew will be exhibiting 16 computerized programmable machines for hand-stitch along side a multitude of options for angular mockhand stitches, 4-thread snake pattern, ruffling sewing machines, curved edge machine, fagotting fish net sewing machine, sequin sewing, backbone stitch, picot stitch, round eyelet machines, lotus root stitch and zigzag stitch machines (single, twin, roll edge, E-shape).
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